Some pieces of the handle snap together in such a way that they cannot be separated. If a piece is attached out of order, it may become very difficult to assemble this project. Please follow these instructions very carefully in order to ensure that assembly stays easy and fun!
Also note that if you choose to screw the battery holder in, it will not be removable when the handle is fully assembled. The microswitch will also be trapped inside the handle when it is fully assembled, and would be very difficult to remove. Keep these points in mind when building this project!
|Short M3 Screws||22|
|Long M3 Screws||4|
|M3 Male Standoffs||9|
|M3 Female Standoffs||9|
|GY521 (MPU6050 Breakout)||1|
|24 AWG Wire||1|
Tools you'll need
We'll be starting with the center plate. Its handle is a bit wider than the side plates and the top portion is a bit shorter. Take note of all the holes in the center plate. There are two holes close to each other and smaller than the rest. Those are not for standoffs. The rest are.
Start by placing a male M3 standoff through a hole. Screw a female M3 standoff to it from the other side of the center plate. Hand-tighten the standoffs so that they are not loose, but be sure not to over-tighten. Using excessive force can cause the acrylic to crack! Repeat this for the other 8 standoff holes.
Take a side plate and line it up with the center plate. Which side you line up the first side plate with will determine which side the microswitch is on. Screw in the side plate with M3 screws. You may use a screwdriver for this step, but do not over-tighten.
Fit the microswitch in between the plates and line up the mounting holes so that the actuator sticks out the front. The wires should also stick out the top. Place a M2.3 screw through each microswitch mounting hole. Once through, attach a nut to each screw.
You may now take the other side plate and line it up on the other side of the center plate. Use M3 screws to screw it in place. At this point, you can grip the handle and make sure the microswitch is on the side you want it to be. If you'd like to switch it, unscrew the side plates and microswitch, and put it on the preferred side.
Line up the OLED screen with the OLED Mount. Have the OLED pins in line with the slot on top of the mounting piece as shown. Then screw in the OLED with and place an M3 nut on the opposite side.
Slide the OLED Mount onto the back of the handle. Note that this piece may be difficult to remove once in place. Make sure the microswitch and the vibration motor are in place.
Take the Arduino Mount and screw the four 15mm standoffs in the 4 Arduino mounting holes. Use a M3 nut to hold each one in it's place. Place your Arduino so it's holes line up with the standoffs then screw a 5mm M3 bolt in each one. Once in place, align the finished PCB shield with their mating Arduino headers and press.
Take the IMU out of its bag. There are two sets of headers, take the straight ones. Place headers from the bottom and solder the tips that go through the board on top. Once soldered, place it in the IMU headers on the PCB. The bulk of the board should hang off the PCB.
With the PCB in the Arduino and the Arduino on the Arduino Mount, align the Arduino Mount to the rest of the handle, but don't attach it yet. Take the leads for the vibration motor and microswitch and feed them through the middle two of four holes in the Arduino Mount, then into the PCB. Starting with the vibration motor wires, bring them close to the pcb and trim any extra wire. Strip the new ends. Insert the wires into the two holes to the left of the MOSFET. Orientation doesn't matter. Don't make them flush with the PCB since we'll need to solder these from above.
Place the back of the mount into the back of the handle, then pivot the piece downwards onto the clips on the handle. Apply force on either side of the clips until you hear a 'snap', at which point the handle will be fully assembled.
Take the foam double sided tape and attach it to the battery pack. Peel off the other side of the tape and align the battery pack so the barrel jack faces the Arduino.
Congratulations. The mechanical assembly is complete and you can move onto software.